Lol. I am still making my Mad Men dress. Oops.
I’m using Gertie’s wiggle dress pattern with a Spotlight satin poly I’ve had for ages - and I’m calling it a wearable toile (and a bit of a mother pucker to be honest – it’s pucker city here and no setting/needle etc change is helping). Next up I’ll be making the ‘real thing’ in a royal blue wool crepe. Ahhhh how I can’t wait to be back with a natural fibre.
This pattern has been relatively simple to work with, however a new technique for me was underarm gussets. Tricky little buggers. Made trickier by cutting before reading and discovering later that those lines I cut down were actually sewing lines – duh. Ah well, make it work ey! If I hadn’t been overzealous with the scissors, things would have been much easier. But anyway, here’s a light tutorial for the gussets based on my experience.
1. Attaching organza
Organza pieces are attached to the right side of your fashion fabric. I used huge pieces that were trimmed later. If you look closely you can see that the outer fabric (under the organza) has already been cut – don’t do that! Refer aforementioned overzealous cutting. Mark your sewing and cutting lines too – you can just see mine in pink.
2. Sew along sewing lines
Sew along the sewing lines – but still don’t cut!
3. Now cut!
Get your scissors out folks! Now is the time to cut up the cutting line – that you of course had previously marked on the fabric.
4. Turn and press
Turn your organza through to the other side (i.e. the wrong side of your fashion fabric) and press press press.
This is what it looks like from the right side.
5. Attach the gusset piece
Because of my early cutting incident. This was trickier. However, I pushed and prodded the fabric and got the piece attached ok. Just ok, not brilliantly. As you’ll see below. It’s a toile – whatever (crosses arms and sticks out bottom lip). Then edge stitch to reinforce. You’ll see that my corners/points aren’t that pointy, another ramification of me getting scissor happy.
6. Stitch her up
When you attach your back dress pieces to the front you’ll be joining up your gussets – paying careful attention to matching up the seams. Then, they’ll look like this. Hopefully even better!
There you have it, Gertie’s gussets! You’ll be able to see these in action once the dress is finished. Don’t hold your breath ;)
PS – Gertie has her very own tutorial too. I’d recommend reading it before you make the gussets. Not after. Like me. That was silly. Let’s be honest, I still haven’t read it…