I am supposed to be blogging about a dress I finished and wore to my 30th birthday soiree (karoke anyone?!), but I couldn’t wait to see what y’all think about my next WIP, the Sinbad and Sailor Dove Fitted T, so you’re going to have to wait for the dress – sorry!
As I mentioned in my last post, Hannah from S&S contacted me and asked if I’d like to make this garment. I’ve now completed a trial garment in a funny little (cheap!) print cotton from Spotlight in a straight size 12 so you guys get the best idea of the pattern out of the box – before I Zoe-ise it!!
Here’s the front – sorry about the grainy pics… eeek. To me, the fit was perfect – until I added the sleeves. There’s now those drag lines from the bust… any ideas peeps? Also, once the sleeves were on there wasn’t a whole lotta room to move – you know when you’re trying to put your arms out in front of you… Again, tips welcome here! The ideas I’ve had to address this so far are to maybe add 1cm to the back, or look at the height, and back line of the sleeve piece. Who knows?! Tell me 
PS – like my pretty necklace? T’was a b’day present from some lovely ladies
And here’s the back. Looking pretty good I think. I am wondering about those funky lines at the back of the sleeve – do they mean something?
The instructions were really clear, with lots of details, for example, …don’t backstitch…, and this would be a great garment for anyone who doesn’t have an overlocker because cleverly all many of the raw edges are neatly tucked in under another fold.
The open back means you can just pull it on and off over your head without adding any kind of closure. Oh, and I really like the neckline.
Changes I’m going to make for the ‘real’ one
In addition to any fitting changes;
- The back opening: I want to be able to wear this to work, and would feel a little bare with skin showing at the back. So, I’m thinking, I’ll either a.) make the pieces wider and cross over more, or b.) add a pretty little tie at the bottom that can tie the pieces together. Or maybe even both. Or I could just wear a singlet underneath lol. Or do you have another idea you’d like to share?
- Neck facings: I found the trickiest part of this garment the front neck facing, there was some serious easing required. So, the next one, I’m going to use bias binding around the neck. Whilst this eliminates the facing, the reason for this change was design related rather than issues with construction (yet a nice coincidence ).
- Length: As per usual, I will lengthen, probably by about 4cm.
I’m going to use a ridiculously cool printed rayon that’s going to have much more drape than this little number – can you tell I’m excited? 
Love to hear your tips and thoughts! And fess up, what’s on your sewing table that’s exciting you at the moment?
Z xx
Hi! I think the drag lines at the front and the weirdness on the back sleeve are the same thing – too tight in that area ( I usually have the same issue). I like the binding plan for the neckline as if the fabric is sheer you can see the facing a bit. For the back, you might find the length you want to add and the additional drape in your fabric will stop the gaping..maybe if not you could add a modesty shield type of thing – some sheerish dark (depending on your fabric colour) fabric with a bit of stretch which you would kind of stitch around that v bit? Think the false cami tops on some low v-necks if that means anything to you!
I think its going to look great
Thanks for the feedback and ideas
I think I’m going to let the whole thing out by a size and see what happens! I think you’re right too, in a drapey fabric and longer, my back shouldn’t be scaring my colleagues 
Hi! I think the drag lines at the front and the weirdness on the back sleeve are the same thing – too tight in that area ( I usually have the same issue). I like the binding plan for the neckline as if the fabric is sheer you can see the facing a bit. For the back, you might find the length you want to add and the additional drape in your fabric will stop the gaping..maybe if not you could add a modesty shield type of thing – some sheerish dark (depending on your fabric colour) fabric with a bit of stretch which you would kind of stitch around that v bit? Think the false cami tops on some low v-necks if that means anything to you!
I think its going to look great
Oh, this is looking cute! I love the back opening! I made the mistake of not putting the sleeves on my Banksia top muslin and the shirt pulls through the back shoulders a bit now, not the comfiest. Hope your birthday was fab!!
Oh my, I had a fantabulous birthday indeed, lots of fun thank you! Usually I just put one sleeve on to test, but wanted to show you all a ‘final’ looking Dove
I’ve been watching these patterns and its great to see your version. I do like the split back, it’s a nice surprise !!
It is a nice surprise, don’t want to scare anyone in my office with my naked back though
Your top is lovely, what a shame about the sleeves. Hope you can fix them!
I’m sure it’s ‘fixable’ – only a practice
Pretty top!
The drag lines could be caused by the sleeves not having enough ease around your biceps. I swear the draft for most sewing companies hasn’t changed in the sleeve area since women supposedly sat around being sedentary, and having no muscles anywhere. I always need to increase the size round my bicep, and that enables me to be able to move my arms much more easily.
The height of the sleeve cap might need adjusting too. You’re basically after the sleeve to hang smoothly and the grain straight down the arm, from the top of the armscye. It’s possible to work out the right fit by putting the bodice on, sliding the sleeve up your arm and pinning it so it hangs right, or you can see how you need to adjust it to hang right.
The other things to check are is it too long or short in the shoulder area? From the bust point to shoulder in front needs to be checked and the back from the waist etc, the same. Get that right, then adjust the sleeves to match any fitting changes in the length there.
Also make sure that the top of the armscye seam-line is sitting right on that shoulderpoint. Lift your arms up and where the crease is is where the top of the sleeve seam needs to be, unless the pattern was designed to be higher or lower there.
Another thing that also affects that area is how low the armscye goes. It is a bit counter-intuitive in that the higher the armscye, the easier it is to move your arms once the sleeve is on. If it’s lower, it can kinda catch and the top will need to lift up to get the bottom of the armscye high enough to accommodate the movement.
Hope some of that helps. This is a fantastic article on the subject too. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4483/to-get-the-right-armhole-fit-the-bodice/page/all
However if you didn’t have drag lines till you set the sleeve in, it suggests the fit of the sleeve is more likely the issue.
Thank you Tropical Threads!!! What a comprehensive comment. I ended up slashing the sleeve down the middle and spreading 1.5cms for the final top. I think it helped a bit, but the lighter, drapier fabric would have helped too!